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Decisions, Decisions
  The interesting part of our chassis and suspension design is it will leave the motor choices wide open. The downside is too many options lead to too much indecision. We are evaluation our options while we work on the chassis and the decision will probably be made the good old fashioned grassroots way....whatever we find cheap. What the engine won't be is, as my studebaker friends call it, a "bellybutton" motor. That is a SBC or SBF, like a bellybutton because everyone has one. And no, the Studebaker engine isn't ruled out yet, but we need some measurements on the chassis and more importantly we need to see if it can be saved within the budget, its siezed up right now. :(

Out with the old...
 

Time to start pulling out the weed whacker motor to make room for other things. So far things are coming out fairly easy.


No engine lift required, I was able to pick it up and pull it out on my own.  Chris stopped by and helped me with removing alot of the old wiring, cables, etc to get the bay cleaned up so we can plan the next phase.



Exhaust mods
  Sorry, things are all over the place on the site these days but this seems like as good a place as any.

How to you go from a 3" exhaust pipe to a 2 1/4 inch exhaust pipe....not simply it seems.  After playing with all the adapters at the local parts stores and coming up dry I just bought a 3" connector tube and decided to see what we could make.

So we focused the mathematical powers of Jim squared and figured the circumference of the 3" was approximately 12.5 inches and the circumference of the 2 1/4 was about 7 inches so we divided the difference by 4 then ignored all that and marked out some approximate pie cuts in the adapter.



Then we cut them out and bent everything inward.



An end cut of the 2 1/4 and a little welding and it was all done.  

Now why did we do this?  Because we got a stainless steel Banks muffler for $20 and it had a 3" inlet.




The motivator
The engine used was a Subaru EJ22 4 cylinder.

We learned alot about both the good and bad of these motors and overall I'm still very pleased with how it worked out for us.  Although this particular motor is #2 but still they held up to alot of abuse.

It was mounted to the VW transaxle using a Kennedy engineering adapter kit.


Cooling
For cooling a nice compact aluminum radiator intended for a 2000 Honda Civic was chosen.  It was almost laughably cheap on ebay and as a bonus the Subaru's primary cooling fan fits on it like it was made for it.  Just had to fabricate a few brackets to hold it in place and clearance a small area by the lower outlet pipe.

To get the water from the rear (engine) to the front (radiator) 1 inch EMT conduit was bent up and run under the length of the car.  the ends were built up with some weld to create a flange for the hoses and flexible radiator hose was used for all connections.

The engine outlet pipe has a bleeder valve to remove air and the inlet pipe has a remote filler neck which also assists in bleeding.  After bleeding the bleeter valve is replaced with a sender for the temperature gauge.

This system proved to be extremely effective and overheating was never an issue (as long as something else wasnt broken, see Lemons race report for details)


Fuel system
  The fuel system was made up of a Summit racing 12 gallon cell mounted in the front.  It was modified to accept an in tank pump from a Honda Civic which eliminated the need to mess with swirl tanks or other such items. 

Aluminum fuel line was run front to rear and all connections were made with flexilble hose and AN fittings.

One small "oops" design flaw that set us back on the start of the rally was the return lines.  On the original engine there were 3 lines, 1 supply, 1 return and 1 evap system.  It has been cautioned many times that just because you read it on the internet doesn't make it true.  We didn't know what to do with the evap lines so but an internet search said just tie them into the return.

Bzzzzzt....wrong answer.  What happens is the return fuel then backfloods into the evap lines and causes the engine to flood and die.  Sounds simple in theory, its a nightmare to troubleshoot at 2am on the side of a road.  Eventually the 2 evap lines were just looped back on themselves and all was good.




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